A watch is the most complex piece of jewellery you can
buy. It is also one of the most varied, with the vast choice making it
difficult to discern the right one for you.
We break down some of the key terms you will come across
when shopping for a watch and the things to consider before you buy.
Movement
The ‘movement’ of a watch is the mechanism that measures and
displays the in a watch.
Mechanical watches are powered by an array or springs, gears
and cogs. It is the oldest type of watch movement and is still prized today for
its complexity and artistry. Many watches even make the mechanics of the watch
visible from the outside.
It remains popular because of the skill require to create
it, the beauty of it and the romanticism associated with this traditional form
of movement. Some models, referred to as automatic watches, are self-winding.
They use a mechanism that responds to the movement of the wearers arm.
Quartz watches are powered by a tiny, vibrating quartz crystal;
which oscillates at a specific frequency that is used to pace a time keeping
mechanism.
Quartz watches are accurate to within half a second, making
them extremely reliable. A very wide spectrum of watches use a quartz movement,
from high-end designs to exceptionally affordable models. Quartz watches
require an electrical power source in the form of a small battery.
Some quartz watches use a radio time signals to synchronise
the watch to the exact time and, in some cases, the date and year. This is done
through a radio receiver that tracks signals from GPS navigation satellites.
Citizen Eco-Drive
Citizen watches created their own, patented movement called
Eco-Drive. Eco-Drive movements are powered by light – be it from a natural or
artificial source - that charges a permanently rechargeable battery. The
battery never needs to be replaced and can store enough energy to power the
watch for up to five years, depending on the model.
Complications
Complications essentially means features, and refers to additional
functionality a watch has. There are three classic complications, often
referred to as ‘grandes complications’. These complications in particular are
highly complex and require a great deal of craftsmanship.
The ‘grandes
complications’
Perpetual calendar
– A mechanism that displays the date, taking into account the number of days in
a month and leap years. Many also have a moon phase function, which shows the
waxing and waning of the moon. This is a highly intricate and challenging
mechanism for the watchmaker.
Tourbillon – This
a mechanism which was said to improve the accuracy of mechanical watches
(although there is some debate as to whether it ever did at all). Today, it is
used in watches for its beauty and to show the skill of the watchmaker. The
tourbillon mechanism is usually visible through the watches face to show it
off.
Minute repeater -
This is a feature that chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes of the time
at the press of a button or pull of a lever or switch. It uses three different
tones to differentiate the hours, quarters hours and minutes. It was conceived
to allow people to tell the time in the dark. Other repeaters also exist, such
as the hour repeater which just gives the hour, the quarter hour repeater which
gives the hour and every quarter hour and so on. Generally, if a watch is said
to have a ‘repeater’ without any further specification, it is an hour repeater.
Other complications
Chronograph
A Chronograph is essentially a stopwatch function. It
usually has a series of subdials that indicate the elapsed time. This is not to
be confused with a chronometer, which is a term for a very fine watch that has
been certified by the watch manufacturer or an independent body.
Tachymeter
This is scaled used to measure units per hour and is usually
found on the bezel of a chronograph watch.
Dual
time or Multi-time
A
watch that keeps two or more separate times. This is usually indicated in the
main dial and separate subdials.
Water Resistance
You don’t have to be a diver to care about water resistance.
A good level of resistance can be handy when showering, exposed to heavy rain,
washing up or cleaning the car.
A watch should only be considered water-resistant if it is
stated on the dial or case back. Water resistance is stated in depth (BAR, ATM,
meters or feet). However, this should not be taken literally. Water
resistance is determined in laboratory conditions, where the watch is static
(not moving) and only in the water for a short period of time. This means movement,
prolonged exposure or added pressure cause through, for example, jumping into a
pool, have not been taken into account.
Here’s a look at the different depths and what they allow
you to do.
Depth
|
Usage
|
30 metres/100 ft/ 3 ATM
|
Suitable for use in the rain, car
washing and showering. Should not be worn swimming.
|
50 meters/165 ft/ 5 ATM
|
Suitable for swimming and skiing but should not be warn
for diving into a pool of snorkelling.
|
100 metres/330 ft/ 10 ATM
|
Suitable for snorkelling and
swimming
|
200 metres/660 ft/ 20 ATM
|
Suitable for all high impact water sports and scuba diving
at depth not requiring helium gas.
|
300 metres/990 ft/ 30 ATM
|
Suitable for scuba diving to 30
metres for up to 2 hours
|
500 metres/1650 ft/ 50 ATM
|
Suitable for scuba diving to 50 metres for up to 2 hours
|
This should just be considered a guide. We highly recommend
if you intend to do any diving of any kind to specifically buy a professional
diver’s watch.
How to choose
There a number of things to consider and question to ask yourself
that will help you narrow your search significantly.
Why do you want a
watch?
It seems a silly question, but it can really help you
discern the best type of watch for you. For example, if you are a collector or
an afficionado, a classic, timeless design rather than a practical or durable
model.
Equally, if you are looking for a watch suitable for
everyday use, a combination of great design and durability will probably trump
flashier models.
Simple or
complicated?
Even if you don’t use the tachymeter, complications reflect
the talent and artistry of the watchmaker and can add an attractive dimension.
However, you might also prefer a cleaner, simpler look that prioritises good
design over extras you don’t need.
What is your budget?
The finest examples of watchmaking will rightly fetch a high
price, but there are a vast amount of affordable models that look good and
offer durability.
Gatwards recommends….
For the aficionado…
The OMEGA Speedmaster really is a classic, offering
unparalleled accuracy and precision engineering. It has been a reliable
companion to astronauts on all 6 lunar landings, including Buzz Aldrin and Neil
Armstrong. It even helped Armstrong and crew keep time when the on-board
electric timer broke down.
For the gadget lover…
No watch celebrates its gadgetry like the Perpetual Calendar
Chronograph Watch. Water resistant to 200 metres, radio controlled accuracy,
dual time, a perpetual calendar, stopwatch and alarms. What’s more, it’s
powered by Citizen’s innovative Eco-Drive Movement.
For
fans of mechanical watches…
The simple, beautiful watch has an
aperture exposing the balance wheel of the watch, which is often referred to as
the heart of the watch movement. A simple, chic design makes this a great
choice of watch for anyone interested in the mechanics of watch making, but
still want to look stylish.
For
those that like to keep it simple…
A simple black leather strap, white face and Roman numeral
markers. A simple, elegant design beautifully made. What more could you want
from a watch?
